Walking up to the Old Cayucos pier I see a Jimmy Buffet look alike playing Cat Stevens in front of a small storefront with a line out the door. A variety of people stand in line, some newly peeled from their Mercedes, others with a layer of sand on their feet and all excided about trying the amazing surprises created by Ruddell’s Smokehouse. I had heard for years about the place, but never found myself in the landfall of Captain Cass in the middle of the day. So I got in line and claimed a table on the sidewalk.
We
looked at the restrained menu, order one of each and Gary went into the liquor
store on the corner for a couple of Negro Modelo beers to wash down this smoked
fish feast. The restaurant is economical in space and tariff with two guys
constructing all the food and one taking orders and credit cards. While we
waited for our tacos, I pursed the case options and planned my after meal
purchases, as fish this freshly plucked from the sea and then expertly smoked
was sure to fill up my fridge at home.
In
the deli case was beautiful looking specimens all smoked. Salmon, Albacore,
Ahi, Ono, Shrimp, Chicken, Pork Loin, Oysters and even Cheddar cheese was
available in bulk. I have a deep adoration for smoked food, as I am sure it is
in my DNA. Extending back before recorded history, smoking is one of the oldest
known methods of preserving fish and other foods. Long before the existence of
refrigeration, our ancestors learned to use a combination of salt and wood
smoke, to keep fish and meats from spoiling. Although it's no longer necessary
the flavor it gives and the tenderizing effect is has on certain types of fish
make it a delicacy.
At
Ruddell’s you can buy the smoked delicacies to-go or in a taco, salad or
sandwich. I did it all. We started with tacos. Salmon, Ahi, Albacore and Shrimp
were served up in a warmed taco, but the ingredients were crisp and cold. I started with the Salmon, as it is my crack.
I eat smoked, raw or peppered salmon at least twice a week. This was served
with a bit of spiced aioli, diced Fuji apples, cabbage, tomatoes and onions.
The fresh, sweet, smoky flavor was jaw dropping and this could not be
duplicated anywhere. I felt reverent in the presence of such culinary
excellence and it was hard to let the husband try a bite. Next we tried the
Albacore and it was bursting with the subtle flavor I come to crave with this
fish. It tasted like fresh sashimi with
just a tad of smoke. Thinking it couldn’t get better we moved on to the Ahi.
The fish was so sweet; I opened the taco and ate it all by itself. Thinking
that the smoked shrimp would be the weak link, I saved it for last. But this
blew my mind. It was perfectly cooked and then smoked and the flavor was that
of ancient customs. Simply fantastic. In
every taco, the diced apples were a nice surprise, but you could also taste the
love and devotion put into every ounce of this simple taco stand. I declare
these the Best Fish Taco’s I have ever had.
I
went back for five pounds of smoked fish and cheddar cheese and had a bacchanal
impromptu dinner party for my friends that night. They all agreed we had found
smoked fish nirvana. I loved eating right in front on the sidewalk with my
paper bag laden beer, but it was even better at home with fine wines and tapas.
If you don’t like the laid back location, take it to go and you will be just as
happy eating it on the beach or at home.
I
talked to owner, Jim Ruddell and he told me of his fascination by the process
of smoked foods. With the help of his wife, Kathy, he spent time researching and
tracking down the purest of ingredients for the seasoning in his recipes. They
also visited as many smokehouse restaurants. Jim decided that the beach vibe of
Cayucos was the perfect spot, primarily because he had ready access to an
abundance of fresh fish. As word spread about his talent, he became known
locally as "Smoker" Jim. He has been perfecting his uniquely
delicious smoked foods since 1980. The fish is straight from local docks,
literally right off the boat.
People
from all over the world come to try this amazing, yet simple food that is
wakening everyone to the sublime smoked essences. You are lucky enough to live
within driving distance of this gem, get up there this weekend and write and
tell me I was right. Ruddell’s Smokehouse is located at 101 D Street in
Cayucos, right across from the beach. They are open 7 days a week from 11:00am
to 6:00pm or call them at 805.995.5028.
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